The story about ALPAMAYO in outdoor mag, Germany

15 11 2010
 

outddoor mag 01 | 2011 will be sold from 14.12.2010

 

 

Finally – the first story about our trip is going to be printed. In the german magazine “outdoor“.

Just before christmas “outdoor”, being published by Motorpresse Stuttgart, will have a 8 to 10 page story about our circuit of the Alpamayo on the Santa Cruz Trail.

Outdoor 01/2011 will be on sale from 14. december 2010.

 

 

Outdoor_Preview 01 | 2011

 

Outdoor 12/2010 - das aktuelle Heft

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Around the Alpamayo

6 06 2010

From Cusco we hopped to Lima (one hours flight) to drive north to Huaraz, a small town in the Cordillera Blanca – also called the “Chamonix of Peru”.  More than 20 mountains over 6000m (19700 ft) were waiting for us. We did a 9 day hike around the Alpamayo (130 km, 90miles, with one or two passes every day) and are now back in Huaraz. Today we take a bus back to Lima – to fly home on monday.

A little detour to the Alpamayo basecamp.

Day 2 of the Alpamayo Circuit. Amazing glaciers all around the camp.





Been there… the Inca City

22 05 2010

The typical Machu Picchu view... okay, the background only.

The promised photo…. 7 o’clock at Machu Picchu. Now we are back in Cusco, resting, and planning the last days. Probably more trekking north of Lima, at Huaraz.

This was the path around Salkantay…   beautiful and stunning landscape, but quite a tough walk….

The way to and around Salkantay.





Nice try, thanks Chachani

8 05 2010

First morning light on Chachani summit.

The Chachani (6076m, 19.930ft) is the most impressive and highest volcano near Arequipa. We tackled it quite fearless and perhaps with a bit of lack of respect on our own – but had no luck.

With a 4×4 transport it takes 2.5 hrs from Arequipa to get to the begin of the trail at 4855m (15.930ft). Then you hike up to your base camp at about 5200m (17.060ft) which takes around 2 hours.

The problem is: You have to get up at 2.00 am to start your summit ascent. The first part we had checked out the afternoon before so we would find our way with headlamps to a saddle at around 5600 m (18.370ft). In sheer darkness we arrived at the beginning of the snow and ice area and started a long traverse along a quite steep slope. Some days before over 20 people had tried the ascent to the summit so there should have been a well trampled track. So we thought. But after two hours the track fainted more and more and we started to doubt if we were on the right path. Temperatures were way below freezing point and Kim and me had severe problems with cold hands and feet. You start worrying if you can’t feel your fingers anymore, don’t you? As it was still dark we decided to head back and walk down in a rocky valley to check out alternative paths.

As the first sunlight hit the scene we could see that we had been totally right. The icy and snowy path was leading to the next ridge from where you start to hike up to the first and then to the real summit of Chachani. As we detected this it was too late to start a second attempt. We felt a little sorry because this time we had slept well and had nearly no signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) like headache or nausea. And we walked quite fast considering the high altitude and the darkness.

With mixed feelings we crawled slowly back to the first saddle where the first rays of sun warmed our frozen bones. The descent to the base camp then was easy. Warm tea and potato soup helped to get back to life. The rewarding of this try was the complete loneliness (it was only us two in the base camp) and the amazing wildlife. We saw a fox strolling through the base camp after we had hiked up a little bit on the first day, two eagles landing 50m away from our camp and a cute brown mouse near our tent making a hell of a noise the whole night through. And we detected puma prints on the path in the snow (our driver had told us that there were pumas in the Chachani area). Or was it the Andean Yeti?

And we experienced an earthquake in the middle of the night. Kim was close to jump out of the tent while the earth was shaking under us. I felt quite lucky to be outside and not in a building in the city. For Remco from our Hostal Tambo Viejo who was organizing all our trips the “terremoto”  was quite normal.

I am still thinking about coming back and give Chachani another try. Volunteers welcome. Now I can act as guide.

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Bike fun in Arequipa

6 05 2010

The white city of Arequipa in the south of Peru is definitely worth a visit. It is surrounded by three volcanoes   – Chachani, Misti and Pichu Pichu with altitudes close to and above 6000m (18.000ft) – and there is a lot of outdoor stuff to do like rafting, hiking the Colca Canyon and biking. We combined hiking the Chachani with a bike downhill from 5000m  (15.000 ft) altitude.

Mountainbiking starts with a downhill from the foot of El Misti.

Two days before we biked around the Misti with a small detour to the town of Chiguata with a beautiful old church built from the often used white volcanic stone named Sillar.

The church of Chiguata made of white Sillar blocks.

Great fun and cultural experience too because you ride through valleys with pre-Inca terraces which are still used today for growing herbs and alfalfa.

Riding through a valley with pre-Inca terraces.

Beautiful landscape close to Arequipa.

The bike tours are offered by Aldo Pena, who was several times Peruvian champion in mountainbiking and road cycling.

An eagle at the church of Chiguata.





El condor pasa

3 05 2010

El Condor...

... pasa...

The Colca Canyon ist the second deepest canyon of the world  as we learned while visiting Peru. So it was a must to hike it – and also a good option to get used to the altitude. You start at the small town of Cabanaconde (a 5-6  hours bus ride from Arequipa) and you walk down around 1000m (3.000 ft) to the river in the canyon bed.

Hiking down Colca Canyon.

We ran out of water before we reached the village we were heading for. The hand drawn map had not shown that you had to hike up the canyon on the other side again, then going along the slope and to walk down the whole distance again.

After 8 hours of walking we decided to turn around and  go back to the river – to boil some water and disinfect it.

We slept outside on the sandy river banks in a full moon night at amazing 22 C Celsius at 2.200m (6.600ft) altitude and hiked back up to Cabanaconde  the next morning. Sore muscles guaranteed.

On the way to the Colca Canyon you pass by the Cruce del Condores. We were lucky. Exactly in our 20 minute break there where about five condors soaring close to the look out point in  150 metres (450 ft) distance.

On the way to and from Cabanaconde you drive over the alitplano where a lot of llamas and guanacos are kept in herds. So this is a road sign worth being printed on t-shirts I think.

Beware of Llamas at the altiplano.





Pichu Pichu

2 05 2010

Pichu Pichu means summit to summit

Pichu Pichu means Summit to Summit and it is one of three volcanoes near Arequipa. After a 3 hours drive with a 4×4 we hiked up to 5100m (15500 feet) to set camp there. To get an impression of this vast and lonely landscape check out the PHOTOS.